Page 2 - Climb July 2015
P. 2
REGULARS
6 HOT LINES
Top British alpinists fire a big new route in remote Alaska; Japanese ace Dai Koyamada completes an extraordinary new problem in Kyushu, Japan; China’s hardest trad route goes up in Li Ming, Yunnan; plus a tribute to the late Dean Potter
29 VERTICAL DIARY
Robbie Phillips climbs Alex Huber’s super-route Bellavista in the Dolomites, and has a big adventure along the way
36 DISSENT ROUTE
Sarah-Jane Dobner suggests a new, more positive interpretation of the phrase ‘climb like a girl’
56 HOT GEAR
Tom Richardson reviews the most interesting new gear for summer 2015
62 GEARING UP: RACK UPDATE
Tom Richardson highlights the best new hardware with which to refresh your rack this year
68 THE CLIMB REVIEW
An exclusive excerpt from Eiger Extreme, a new account of the race to climb the direct route on the North Face of the Eiger in 1966, by Peter Gillman and Leni Gillman
70 THE INSIDE STORY
The latest news and events from British climbing walls
74 POSTCARD FROM THE EDGE
Dean Potter walks the line across a rising moon over Cathedral Peak, Yosemite
DESERT SOLITAIRE 16 A photographic essay by Ken Etzel on the world class granite bouldering of Bishop, California
ALL CLIFFS GREAT & SMALL 30 The dramatic Arve Valley, stretching west from Mont Blanc and the Chamonix Valley, is packed with brilliant climbs from
single pitch cragging to full-blown alpine multipitch adventures. Judith Spancken introduces the best crags and finest climbs
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JULY 2015
PARADISE ISLAND 38 Matt Heason travels to the island of Hvar off Croatia’s Adriatic Coast
JUNGLE GINGA 42 A photographic essay by David Pickford on the world class sport climbing of Serra do Cipó, Brazil
THE PROVING GROUND 52 Steve McClure charts the irresistible rise of competitions & explains what they mean for climbing culture
ARE YOU READY? 58 Plas y Brenin coach Dave Evans explains how you can learn to climb multipitch routes on British mountain crags this summer
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