Page 3 - Climb DEC 2014 Teaser
P. 3
FEATURES
EXPOSURE: A photographic essay on the superb crack climbing to be
found across England and Wales. Once you see this, you’ll wonder if you really need to go to the USA to find world class jamming
BACK ON THE STACK 28 Forty eight years after his first ascent of The Old Man Of
Hoy in 1966, Chris Bonington returns to climb the route again with Leo Houlding
THE PROMISED LAND 34 Fancy an alternative to a winter sport climbing trip to
Spain? Leading British climber and Team GB member
Stewart Watson explains why Israel might be your next
big escape from the northern European winter
THE GREAT EASTERN 46 Steve McClure joins up with the final leg of the 2014
Petzl Roc Trip, which travelled through five eastern European countries and visited some of the continent’s most exciting new climbing areas
SUPPLEMENTS: DO THEY WORK? 50 Rebecca Dent separates the facts from the fictions surrounding dietary supplements for climbers
COURSES 54 Dave Rudkin looks at the challenge of
Scottish winter climbing, and the skills that underpin a safe day out
REGULARS
HOT LINES
Pete Whittaker makes one of the most impressive ascents of El Cap in Yosemite history, a report on this year’s Kendal Mountain Festival, and we remember British climber Dave Pegg who passed away in November 2014
26 VERTICAL DIARY
Tom Livingstone revels in the lonely drama of Gogarth’s Main Cliff on one of its finest routes, Positron
32 DISSENT ROUTE
Leading British boulderer David Mason examines the dark art of motivation, one of the keystones of successful climbing
40 THE CLIMB INTERVIEW
Lucia Prosino talks to leading Swiss climber Roger Schaeli about his lifelong relationship with the Eiger Nordwand, adventures in the Greater Ranges, mixing hard rock climbing with high end mountaineering, and what he’s got on the radar for the future
44 GEAR OF THE YEAR
Tom Richardson selects the superb Vapour Light HyperTherm jacket from Berghaus, a valuable addition to any Scottish winter climber’s kit bag
58 GEARING UP
Tom Richardson reviews a range of the best insulation currently available. Whether you’re an alpinist, a sport climber or a boulder, you’re going to need it - and the better it works, the better you’ll climb
66 THE CLIMB REVIEW
We read Simon Carter’s new coffee table epic Rock Climbing Down Under, review The Great Mountain Crags of Scottish Mountaineering, of plus a new guidebook to the magnificent Costa Verde on the north coast of Spain
70 THE INSIDE STORY
The latest news and events from British climbing walls
74 POSTCARD FROM THE EDGE Tim Glasby goes Beyond the Thunderdome
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