Page 3 - Climb June15 teaser

REGULARS
HOT LINES 6 Dan Varian adds major new Northumberland problem,
slate testpiece gets first repeat after 28 years, the Southwest’s hardest sport route receives second ascent and new routes in the Alps
THE CLIMB INTERVIEW 38 Ian Parnell talks to leading British alpinist, Tom Ballard
about his recent quest to climb all six big north faces in the Alps in winter, following the footsteps of his mother, Alison Hargreaves.
VERTICAL DIARY 44 Sarah Flint reflects on an ascent of Ed Drummond’s arch
classic sea cliff climb A Dream Of White Horses at Gogarth, North Wales, and her encounters with history along the way
GEAR OF THE YEAR 50 Tom Richardson reviews the new Tupilak hardshell system
from Mountain Equipment, one of the finest shell systems currently available for alpinists
MOUNTAIN WORLD 52 Lindsay Griffin takes us to the Nepalese Himalaya and the Rowling Valley home to some impressive recent climbs
DISSENT ROUTE 59 Ian Wyatt examines how to overcome the
fear of falling, arguably the biggest obstacle to improvement
GEARING UP:
THE WATERPROOFS REVOLUTION 60
Tom Richardson explains how changes in waterproof technology have transformed modern climbing clothing, and selects some of the best waterproofs currently available
THE CLIMB REVIEW 66 We review Jonathan Griffith’s stunning photography book
Alpine Exposures, plus the story of a remarkable recent ascent of the Old Man of Hoy
THE INSIDE STORY 70 The latest news and events from British climbing walls
POSTCARD FROM THE EDGE 74 Mike Hutton glimpses a silhouette with a difference at Ramshaw Rocks, Staffordshire
THIS PAGE: Top Canadian climber Will Stanhope making a quick onsight of Yukan II (E6/7 6b) at Nesscliffe, Shropshire, on a return visit to the UK in April 2015, when he also repeated Tim Emmett’s scary super-route Muy Caliente! (E9/10) in Pembroke.
DAVID PICKFORD
COVER: Leading Irish activist Ricky Bell on Very Big Springs (E7 6c) on Mirror Wall, Co. Clare, Ireland. Turn to page 20 to find out more about what is arguably European climbing’s best kept secret.
RONAN BROWNER
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WWW.CLIMBMAGAZINE.COM JUNE 2015