Page 3 - Climb September 2015

REGULARS
8 HOT LINES
A major new alpine rock route in the Chamonix Aiguilles, an impressive all-female ascent of the Denali Diamond, Robbie Phillips on an alpine big wall mission, plus an ultra-cool addition to Fair Head, Northern Ireland
40 HOT GEAR
Tom Richardson selects the season’s most interesting new gear to help enhance your performance on the rock
51 VERTICAL DIARY
Charlie Woodburn experiences Stage Fright at Hodge Close in the Lake District
58 THE INSIDE STORY
The latest news and events from British climbing walls
59 DISSENT ROUTE
Dave Lucas unravels the often mistaken perception of the risks of travel
60 GEARING UP
Tom Richardson reviews a selection of the latest gear for big wall climbing
68 THE CLIMB REVIEW
An exclusive excerpt from Alpine Warriors, the new book by Bernadette McDonald about post-war Yugoslavian climbers in the Himalaya, plus we review Extreme Eiger by Peter Gillman & Leni Gillman, and the new edition of Eastern Grit by Rockfax
74 POSTCARD FROM THE EDGE Tommy Caldwell heads into the alpine in Patagonia
FEATURES
SCULPTURES IN SAND 14 A photographic essay on the exceptional sandstone climbing
and bouldering of the Grampian Mountains, Victoria, Australia
A CRAG FOR ALL SEASONS 30 What’s the best sport climbing area in south west England?
It might well be Anstey’s Cove in South Devon, as Tom Newberry explains
TRANS-CANADIAN 34 Western Canada offers some of the most tantalising options
for a summer climbing road trip anywhere in the northern hemisphere.
Kyle Dow highlights some of the areas and crags
that you must not miss on a trans-Canadian tour
INTERVIEW: TOMMY CALDWELL 42 Lucia Prosino talks to the man behind the Dawn Wall,
the world’s hardest multipitch climb, about his extraordinary climbing life
THE TRAINING ROOM 48 Neil Gresham discovers the secrets that Ben Moon used this year to climb his second 9a,
over twenty years after making the first ascent of Hubble, the world’s first route of that grade
ARE YOU READY? PART III: E2 52 Dave Evans cranks up a gear with a step-by-step guide to leading your first E2
ARC’TERYX ALPINE ACADEMY 2015 56 Hendrik Morkel reports on this year’s event in Chamonix
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JULY 2015